South Africa Part 1: Off the Beaten Track

Hi Everyone,

Just over 1’200kms and 8 days later I find myself sitting at my desk in Zurich writing up about our (my dear friend Nicola and I), fabulous “Thelma &Louise” road trip in South Africa – which has a happy ending – smile!

The trip began with the fear of God installed in me by many people insisting South Africa was dangerous and that I was mad to even consider a girls’ road trip there. Let me tell You that we felt safer here than many other places we’ve both travelled to. Of course, one needs to be prudent and considerate to everyone. Do not pick up hitchhikers – but would you do this in any country? Avoid Shanty towns – poverty can breed crime anywhere in the world.

What really surprised me was the amount of security everywhere we parked and in central Cape Town. It was incredible.

Another amazing fact is how friendly everyone is in South Africa. Especially the people working. No matter what job they had they all acted as though it was their dream job and they were super happy doing it.

The value for money was incredible — especially compared to Switzerland. Amazing food at amazing prices.

South Africa Part 1 covers our travels around Hermanus, the Overberg region and a little of the Western Cape Route 62. Tips for where to stay and eat included.

Keep on reading for a pictorial account of: “South Africa Part 1: Off the Beaten Track”

 

South Africa Part 1: Off the Beaten Track

After arriving in Cape Town our first destination was 2 nights in Swellendam.

Day 1: Schoone Oordt in Swellendam

Swellendam charmed us instantly, but it was Schoone Oordt that truly stole our hearts.

This beautifully restored country house, rich with family history, feels like stepping into a storybook. Owner, Alison made us feel at home right away with tea and scones at check-in. Really setting the mood right from the very beginning.

Our room was fantastic — complete with a cosy fire lit for us each evening, the kind of thoughtful touch that makes you melt a little inside.

The gardens were picture‑perfect, Nicola was particularly fascinated by the fish.

The food absolutely outstanding, I feel hungry just looking at what we ate.

Even breakfast was the most delicious three course affair served directly at our table. Our start to each day here could not have been better – smile!

The staff were so genuinely lovely that leaving felt like saying goodbye to friends. Schoone Oordt is a true gem that lingers with you long after you’ve driven away.

 

Swellendam Town

Swellendam’s history is complex. Founded in 1743, it’s one of South Africa’s oldest towns and home to the country’s oldest magistrate’s building. Much of its early story is tied to colonial rule and the harsh realities of slavery, which shaped the region for generations.

Today, beautifully preserved Cape Dutch architecture remains and there is an interesting museum based across the town which stands as a reminder of that layered past, giving the town a depth that’s impossible to ignore.

 

Day 2: Exploring

You really do need a rental car in South Africa so that you can go around and explore. There’s so much to discover.

Witsand Beach

Witsand beach is part of the Robberg Nature Reserve and officially also belongs to the Garden route. It is known for its 4km stretch of incredibly white sand, caused by natural leaching of iron oxide, and is considered a “hidden gem”.

Certainly one of the most beautiful swimming beaches we came across. Also a great spot for Whale watching when in season.

En-route we passed the largest ostrich farm we had ever seen. I was most impressed that they decided to group themselves close to the road on our way back – perfect for the photo.

 

Barrydale:

A pretty drive over the Tradauw pass led us to Barrydale. Tradauw pass is nothing like your usual Swiss mountain pass. Not nearly as curvy or as high. The rock formations however were pretty stunning. Almost a little scary in parts.

One of our first lessons in Barrydale was to never judge a book by its cover. This unassuming building, die Langhuis, houses the prettiest shop and cafe. In fact the only reason we went inside was because I spotted a Mercedes parked outside which made me curious.

Unfortunately though by the time we arrived all food had gone so we had to find another place for our somewhat late lunch.

Instead we bought the most delicious rusks that we encountered on our entire trip.

Not to worry, our hunger was satisfied by the most delicious toasted bagel at the Camel Horse Cafe.

Next up were the Barrydale Hand Weavers. Here we got to see a live weaving demonstration and of course I couldn’t help but buy a couple of pieces to take back home.

 

Day 3: Time to leave Swellendam and head onwards

Bontebok National Park

Bontebok National park is one of the things that everyone recommends you do. We started our day diligently driving through the rugged roads thinking a 4 wheel drive would have been better just then.

The park was established in 1931 to ensure the preservation of the bontebok. We had fun but have to be honest and tell you that during our 45 minute drive we only saw one bontebok close enough to photograph and 2 others too far away to almost recognise.

 

Stay tuned for the next article about where we spent the next two nights of our beautiful South Africa trip…

 

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